I just revisited zeldman.com, after having forgotten about his site for nearly a year, and found a link to the winners of the WThRmix competition. The task was to redesign the W3C homepage, only changing the CSS, leaving the XHTML mostly as is. Take a look, it's quite interesting.
I'm currently figting with a project using <table>s for layout. I hate it! It seems impossible to get it right in all browsers, and I can't see how I could do better with CSS. Maybe I should just say that it can't be done, and present a CSS based alternative.